Cruise with Toulouse: Climbing a Mayan Temple

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Main Temple of Chacchoben Mayan Site

There’s nothing like the end of the world to motivate your holiday plans.

So, when Nina roused me out of bed aboard the cruise ship Carnival Dream for a shore excursion to the Chacchoben Mayan Ruins of Costa Maya, I thought “why not?”

I always wanted to get a closer look at the place where those nasty “End of the World” rumors began …

Costa Maya is located on the Yukatan Peninsula, a limestone tableland of forests and mountains in southern Mexico, where the Mayan civilization colonized some 3000 years ago. The Mayans built incredible cities, particularly between 250 and 900 AD, when they advanced astronomy, math, and calendar-making equal to the ancient Greeks and Egyptians. They were doing all this, I might  add, at a time when Europeans were struggling in the pre-chivalry stage of the Dark Ages.
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"Ships Alley" at Costa Maya Pier

Serfdom and Feudalism reigned at the expense of creativity, learning and innovation. And let’s not forget that back then The Iron Maiden wasn’t the name of a rock band and dudes made a legitimate living in the torture business. There’s a reason it was called the Dark Ages. In the meantime, the Mayans were cutting out the hearts of children to sacrifice to Quetzalcoatl (Kukulcan), a bird-snake god, or Chac the rain god.

OK. Here’s the cool bit: The Mayan Long Count Calendar provides a

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Giant Kapok buttresses embrace ancient ruins in Costa Maya jungle

set period of cycles encompassing a 5,125-year era from the  Gregorian date of August 11, 3114 BC. The winter solstice of 2012 marks the end of an era (paralleling the Greek’s cycle of catastrophe, the End of the Age or Suntelia Aion) when the “wrathful father Sun will eclipse the dark rift at the centre of the Galaxy.” Okay…this is cool too: the mythical serpent of light resides in the heavens (the Milky Way) and viewed at the galactic central point (near Sagittarius) the serpent eats its own tail (the Ouroboros). In the mythical cycle of catastrophic change, the Suntelia Aion occurs when the sun rises out of the mouth of the Ouroboros, predicted to occur on the winter solstice of 2012. The movie 2012 capitalized on the hysteria that solar, seismic, volcanic electromagnetic and/or military activity will spark a physical catastrophe and destroy our world. Others believe that this “end

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Toulouse rests in front of the second temple

of an era” symbolizes the ushering in of a new era of global consciousness  and new respect for the planet.

Nina and I joined a bus tour to the Mayan ruins of Chacchoben, which means “place of red corn”. Once the tour group disembarked, we sidled away (sly grin) in search of adventure in the sultry jungle of Quintana Roo. Nina and I wandered among huge buttressed kapoks, acacias and palms, inhaling the pungent aromas of epiphytic orchids, hanging moss and other exotic plants. The jungle yielded her secrets grudgingly, I thought, as we picked our way

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Mayan Temple nestled in the Jungle

through the chaos of tree trunks and roots—locked in a twisted embrace around stone stairs and other ancient remnants. The ground was littered with kapok seed pods (they reminded me of something else; this is jaguar country…). Nina (in her Google-wisdom) informed me that the fiber inside is used as an alternative to  down as filling in mattresses, pillows, upholstery and stuffed toys. I know what you’re thinking; don’t even go there…

The jungle yielded three temple pyramids, all perfectly aligned. The main temple stood on the grassy terrace of El Gran Basamento, at the top of a huge stone staircase. I glimpsed no eerie serpent statues or bas-reliefs of jaguar god-men. But I experienced something far more dangerous.

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Toulouse climbs a Kapok tree

I was climbing the steep pyramid face of the third temple to catch a glimpse of the top which was used to track the sun’s path. Then froze. A bright red snake slithered out from a dark crack in one of the stairs just inches in front of me. Luckily, he didn’t feel like snacking—most snakes this size typically eat small reptiles, lizards, frogs and mammals (that’s me!). Instead, he wandered up the stairway, perhaps looking for a quiet place to sunbathe. Nina gasped. She snatched me and stuffed me in her bag.

“No more adventures for you!”

When we rejoined the tour, Nina described the snake to our guide. He also gasped and informed her that we’d come within inches of Costa Maya’s most deadly snake, the Coral Snake.

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Toulouse escapes a deadly snake!

As Nina walked back to the bus, jostling me in her backpack, I pointed out the haunting “meowing” notes of the Quetzal bird. But Nina was mumbling something to herself about knapsacks and didn’t hear. By the way, the Quetzal was prized by the Maya for its feathers and symbolizes freedom (Nina isn’t the only one who uses Google).

Well, I’d done a little reading myself and I blithely informed Nina that the snake I almost bumped into didn’t have the distinct bands of the venomous Coral Snake (they are known for their colorful red, yellow and black bands). With the exception of no obvious black “collar” neck and dull yellow/orange face, the colorations of our snake resembled Yukatan’s Red Coffee snake, often mistaken for the coral snake but perfectly harmless—unless you’re a small mammal (like me), that is. I suggested that my little snake “friend” might also have been a non-venomous Red Coachwhip snake, which also has a reddish braided body and tapered whip-like tail. In any case, all this is truly moot to me: any of them would have been happy to eat me, if they were feeling at all peckish. I am, after all, very good looking. :-3

Nina then pithily informed me that not all coral snakes show banding. And it was the right size (typically 20-30 inches long). Oh…

As we made our way back to the boat, I recalled something Drunvalo Melchizekek, Mayan spokesman, said in a presentation about 2012:

“…The world you know, that you live in, is not what you think it is. We modern people think the world is solid and real, and that nothing can change it…The Maya wish to inform you this is not true. The world is really images that can be controlled by consciousness, especially consciousness that is connected directly in the human heart.”

I guess that’s why I didn’t get eaten or zapped by the snake… “You don’t want to harm me…”

…I’m Toulouse LeTrek the COOL travel cat… :-3

Photos by Nina Munteanu

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16 Responses
  1. These Mayan temples always have traps in them!

  2. Toulouse LeTrek says:

    Ah, yes, Jean-Luc! NOW you tell me! :-3

  3. SF Girl says:

    I needed a drink after that one! Luckily, there was a wonderful place at the pier that served these foot-high “mysterious liquor” blue-green slushies … :)

    Your friend,
    Nina

  4. Teresa says:

    Interesting post, I remember after the recent 2012 disaster movie came out that there was controversy and discussion floating around about the whole Mayan calendar ending abruptly issue…
    The one I enjoyed the most was a cartoon showing the ancient calendar makers deciding to knock off for a coffee break and deciding to stop there as it was sooooo far in the future no one would ever notice! Little did they know;-) LOL!

  5. Toulouse LeTrek says:

    Yes, little did they know what human confusion they would cause! I think we should all have a party in 2012 to celebrate coffee breaks

  6. Toulouse LeTrek says:

    Merci! Thanks for the compliment, Piter, and no need to apologize for your English; it’s pretty good (you should see Nina’s spelling before I get through with it!). This blog is a resource for others journeying, and is based on our adventures and trips (many of them business trips for travel clients and Nina’s writing workshop/coaching or booktour gigs) and my superior knowledge of all things beautiful and worth exploring (see my Zen of Traveling Page)

    As for hobbies… sometimes I think I’m Nina’s hobby!… But when she’s happy I’m happy…
    Toulouse :-3

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  8. holgie says:

    How you find ideas for articles, I am always lack of new ideas for articles. Some tips would be great

  9. Toulouse LeTrek says:

    Well, I could start with a lesson in grammar… :-3

  10. Adria says:

    Absolutely great account of your adventure! I took my husband and son on a research trip around the Maya Riviera in January to prepare for my current novel project, and you’ve just given me even more inspiration…thank you!

  11. Toulouse LeTrek says:

    Wonderful! I’m so glad I could help with your novel project. It sounds intriguing. Please let my readers know more about it, Adria, and thanks for coming on my site and commenting.
    Ton ami,
    Toulouse :-3

  12. SF Girl says:

    “How do you get your ideas?” … that’s a great question, isn’t it, Toulouse? I’d say it’s more that they come to you … LOL! Our adventures just bring them on… Where to next, dude?

    Your friend,
    Nina

  13. Toulouse LeTrek says:

    Hmmm…. another cruise would be nice… :-3

    Ton ami,
    Toulouse :-3

  14. deals local says:

    Hey there! Would you mind if I share your blog with my twitter group? There’s a lot of folks that I think would really appreciate your content. Please let me know. Thanks

  15. Toulouse LeTrek says:

    Certainly! By all means, share away! I’m also on Twitter. You may wish to look me up there.

    Bon chance!
    Toulouse

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