Main Street Bozeman
The look on the street is Carrie Bradshaw in country boots. No need to pack a blow-dryer; the Keep it Wild philosophy extends from nature to hair, which is also left untamed
—Travel & Leisure Online
“This is our kind of place,” Nina declared as we crested the hill with a view of the university town of Bozeman, nestled in the Gallatin Valley and surrounded by several mountain ranges. This “keep it wild” town was paradise for Nina, whose hair is unruly at the best of times. “Did you know,” she went on, “That The Horse Whisperer and A River Runs Through It were filmed here?” Of course I did… I’d already done my research.
“Listen to this!” Nina jabbed a finger at the visitor’s guide description of Bozeman, Montana, while she drove in that harrowing one-handed way that was becoming a bad habit—and sending my little heart a pattering. “It’s ‘a charming town. In a John Wayne—Norman Rockwell—Bob Marley sort of way.’ ” Then she laughed and did that “pig-snort” thing at me as I tried—and failed—to picture John Wayne as a Rastafarian. She knew what I was doing
The Leaf and Bean Bozeman
and guffawed.
Ironically, this described the heart of Bozeman’s historic downtown perfectly. Bozeman’s Main Street features a relaxed funky atmosphere, an exciting commingling of southern wild west and northern yuppy vogue. Nina was in her element. “Yeeha!” she sang. “Let’s park and walk.” I was happy with that; I could use a break from gripping the dash, I thought.
A cross between Louisville’s bohemian Bardstown Road and Victoria BC’s historic Government Street, Main Street in Bozeman is a memorable walk. Lamps adorned with colorful bouquets of local flowers line the downtown street. Most of the buildings are heritage-style brick
Main Street Bozeman
facades with original signage. Among the galleries (like the Beatnik), antique stores and movie theatre, I spotted several music shops, like Cactus Records, which sells international and local music and equipment. Main Street is an attractive retail corridor that houses more than 100 shops and restaurants, including those selling sporting goods, clothing, furniture, kitchen equipment, and technology. Remember, Montana has no sales tax. The street provides wonderful and affordable choices in eating. Interesting places include the Montana Fish Company (which serves fresh fish flown in daily and sushi rolled every morning), Ted’s Montana Grill (with an attractive patio front for people-watching), The Pickle Barrel Sandwich Shop, and Burger Bob’s. The Crystal Bar, a lively place in the evening, offers a rooftop lounge with a view.
Just west of Cactus Records, is The Leaf and Bean. My well-travelled friend Armon had highly recommended a
Toulouse chooses coffee at the Leaf and Bean
coffee house with lots of character and great coffee on Main Street; he couldn’t remember the name. When we walked inside, I knew this was the place Armon meant. A quick scan along the brick walls lined with original paintings, and funky shelf-displays of local art (from handmade coffee sleeves to jewelry) told me that this was no ordinary coffee shop. My whiskers curled with delight.
The place was hopping with patrons enjoying lively banter by the door; others huddled over their computers in the back corner or in intimate conversation beneath the local art. Nina and I sidled to the front counter, which showcased a savory selection of in-house baked pastries, light lunches and cookies along with alternatives to coffee beverages. We ordered a regular coffee with hazelnut syrup. A bright mural by Edward Hemingway (Ernest Hemingway’s grandson) animated the wall behind the barista. The owner told us that Edward Hemingway had lived in Bozeman and had painted the mural for the previous owner.
Established in 1977 and once owned by actress Glenn Close, this brew house offers a rich selection of freshly air-roasted coffees, gourmet espresso beverages and exotic teas from all parts of the world. Its bohemian coffee-house atmosphere, together with friendly service makes this java retreat a coffee addict’s haven. The place even hosts life entertainment several nights a week. According to Big Mike, a Bozeman blogger, there is also an open mic night, sponsored by the university (MSU) English Club, for aspiring singers and entertainers.
Good times to be had at the open mic! Just don’t tell Nina… ;-3
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