Toulouse crosses the Kentucky-Indiana Terminal Bridge

“Are we supposed to cross this bridge?” Nina said, squinting over the steering wheel at the steel girders of the Kentucky-Indiana Terminal Bridge over the Ohio River. She zoomed past several highway signs. I just shook my head and studied my map. We were lost again, but that was normal. We usually had to get lost to get found. I was ok with that; we’ve discovered some pretty neat places that way (like Milwaukie and Windsor, Canada. It’s the way of Toulouse’s Zen of Travel).

We were heading into Louisville, Kentucky as part of Nina’s 2009 American Book tour for her writing guidebook, The Fiction Writer: Get Published, Write Now! Nina had a book signing at several Barnes & Noble stores. And Carmichael’s (with its coffee shop) on Bardstown Road had just agreed to carry her book. I perked up: good books and fine coffee go so well together. And the reputation of Bardstown Road had already preceded itself (I’d done my research).

“Hey, look here, Toulouse!” Nina pointed an eager finger at the tourist brochure she’d picked up at a gas station

Adam and Nikki charm Toulouse in Louisville

 just outside the town. I tried not to flinch as she took both hands off the steering wheel to show me (she’s a good driver… but only when she drives…) “Louisville’s motto is Keep Louisville Weird! That’s our kind of town!” She laughed with glee. I glimpsed the motto on the Kentucky plate of the car Nina almost clipped: Unbridled Spirit. Hmmm… whose spirit was unbridled? Nina blithely continued, “I’m a Canadian writer doing an American book tour and you’re a cultured travel cat.”

I smiled to myself.

Truth be told, I was looking forward to seeing Kentucky and Louisville. This state has more horses per capita than anywhere else in the world. Trust me; I’ve done the research. Horses. Bucolic pastures. This is truly Kentucky.

Bardstown Road in Louisville

Burgoo stew, eggs with grits and biscuits with gravy. Derbie pie. The finest Bourbon Whiskey. Louisville is Kentucky’s cultural jewel, and boasts another form of “unbridled spirit”, the spirit of a friendly welcoming and honest people. People proud of their state and their city. The city’s motto, “Keep Louisville weird” is an affirmation of a willingness to embrace the diverse cultures represented in Louisville, a town named after a French king, and where I got to taste King Louis’s very own raspberry liquor, Chambord Liquor Royale, (made in France and imported and bottled in Louisville). But I’m getting ahead of myself; first we had to get there…

It took us a few swerves here and there along the freeway and bridge to find our way into the heart of Louisville—Nina has no GPS to speak of and Kentucky drivers are almost as maniacal as Nebrascans: more of that Unbridled Spirit, I guess. But even then, we had lots of time before the book signing and decided to walk the eclectic

happy Louisvillians

 commercial stretch of Bardstown Road from Market Street, near what’s known as the Cherokee Triangle, to Taylorsville Road. This section of town is called the Highlands—an area near downtown Louisville marked by a ridge of land between the middle and south forks of Beargrass Creek.

We had no idea that we’d stumbled into the part of town that best represents the city’s motto. But it soon became more than obvious…

It’s all about originality. And character (or is it “characters”?). I was reminded of the ancient streets of Paris in the Latin Quarter, as we walked past narrow shops, bistros and cafes stacked like a post-modern

Jeremy and Toulouse discuss Bourbon Whiskey at the Old Town

medieval lane. Known variously as “punk street” and “Restaurant Row” for its copious nightclubs, pubs and eateries, Bardstown Road mixes artistic, organic, punk and yuppie influences into a kind of cosmopolitan stew.  This is most obvious in the signage, which includes hand-painted awnings, old-style neon lights and eye-catching avant-garde murals. Names competed for attention using anything from clever to outrageous. Among the eclectic shops that provided body piercing, tattooing, and acupuncture, we passed clothing stores called “Eccentric” or “Weeds of Eden” (they sell hemp clothing, by the way :-3), beauty salons called “ScissorHands” and “Raindogs” (named after a Tom White tune), a music shop called Ear-X-tacy, furniture store named “Objects of Desire”, and funky restaurants like “Za’s Pizza Pub”, “Karma Café” or “Ramsi’s Café On the World”, which is featured in the Best of Louisville CitySearch (2003). Late-night nibblers can stop at this funky eatery for international cuisine ranging from Morrocan to Italian.

We were just approaching the Metro Café when someone’s stomach growled. Nina and eye exchanged glances; neither of us was willing to admit we’d been the culprit. But it was understood that a meal was due.

Upon entering, I felt a little like Alice as we left funky for high chic (must have been the blue pill I took earlier).

Toulouse chooses a bourboon at the Old Town

 Nina and I were treated to the elegant ambience of a dining room lined with original German art-deco prints as we savored a Vidalia Onion Tart with roasted tomato crème fraiche and main course of Veal Scaloppini with Bing cherries and a Frangelico cream sauce with mashed potatoes and vegetables. There’s a reason why the Metro Café was voted one of Louisville’s top five restaurants. To my chagrin, Nina avoided the German pastries, and we resumed out walk.

Stuffed with the diverse rich flavors of a good meal, we walked into the Old Town liquor/wine store, and were greeted by an imposing wooden Indian statue

Carmichael's Books in Louisville

(affectionately named “Chief Wooden Head” by its staff). Jeremy, who stands in the picture next to the Chief with a bottle of one of Kentucky’s best bourbon, tells me that the Chief came with the establishment over twenty five years ago and survived the great tornado of 1974. The owners of Old Town Wine Store would prefer that the locals consider it their neighborhood wine store, despite its more than ample selection of hard liquors and exotic soft liquors from all over the world, including champagnes that go for over $300.  I was also impressed by their extensive Pinot Noir selection, divided it into “Old World” and “New World” Pinot Noir.

I had my heart set on the “Buffalo Trace” Bourbon Whiskey, but after Gordon showed us all the local bourbons, Nina chose the “Old Weller” Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey to take home as a souvenir.

In a park beside one of the side-street cafés, we met Nikki and Adam, a young couple with their two month old baby girl, who were travelling through Louisville in their converted school bus from New Orleans on

Toulouse visits Carmichael's

 their way west to Oregon. Nikki’s pen and ink sketches for sale fanned out on the street ahead of her as she played the musical saw to Adam’s lively accordion: Nina and I were their only audience. Their lyrical bluegrass folk music harkened to an era of freedom and self-expression reflected in their rasta hairdos, love beads, body piercings and tattoos. Once they’d finished a set, Nina asked Adam how long he’d played the accordion. Adam flashed a disarming smile and informed us as he started a new song that he’d only picked it up a few months ago. I was impressed. And when no one looked I danced… ;-3

Further down the road, Nina spotted a Starbucks and decided to check her internet and write some notes over a coffee. We weren’t there long before three youths sat next

Toulouse discusses coffee with new friends at Heine Brothers Cafe

to us. One of them sported a bright pink Mohawk. Overcome with Ninonian curiosity, Nina leapt up from her chair and barged in on them with a disarming smile. After introducing herself, she brazenly asked, “Why did you do it and how do you sleep at night?” Ryan’s answer, after a good-natured chuckle, was “I don’t know” and “I sleep on my side.” Ryan is a stylist at “Raindogs” on Bardstown Road, along with his colleague, Tiffy. Both are locals from the Louisville area. They were joined by their friend, Eric, just moved from California. Tiffy defined Louisville as a town that celebrated diversity, open-mindedness and multi-culturalism: “Louisville is where northern meets southern…and it works really well.”  She added that the phrase “Keep Louisville Weird” refers to the city’s mandate to encourage and support local talent to flourish and keep the local culture alive.

I’m happy to report that it is very much alive. And weird… :-3

p.s. the signing at Barnes and Nobles went very well. At Carmichael’s Nina got shanghaied by several eager readers wishing to discuss thrilling topics like adverbs and POV, while I enjoyed the company of two lovely ladies over a cappuccino in the Heine Brothers Café next door. It’s a cat’s life… :-3

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