Yaletown waterfront

After my cockapoo friend Oli travelled across Canada from the Maritimes to trendy Yaletown in downtown Vancouver on the west coast, I knew I had to find an excuse to go visit. My opportunity came early when my good friend, SF writer Nina Munteanu, flew to Vancouver for Christmas. So, I tagged along and as Nina visited with family and friends in various suburbs, I hung out with Oli in hip Yaletown.

Yaletown got its name in the 19^th century when the Canadian Pacific Railroad moved its rail yards and repair facilities from Yale in the Fraser River canyon to the north shore of False Creek—now called Yaletown. Called Vancouver’s little “Soho”, this old industrial part of town experienced a face-lift in the 1980s and emerged as downtown’s trendiest residential neighborhood of urban professionals. The popular seven-block area now provides a landscape of quality restaurants, cafés, boutiques, spas and galleries to local yuppies who live in industrial-retro studio flats and tourists who like to eat great food, experience a health spa or visit an avant-gard art gallery. Old brick warehouses have morphed into lofts and railway loading docks now serve as patio space for martini bars.

Yaletown with view of Vancouver Library

The Vancouver Public Library

Oli lives in a high-rise condominium on Homer Street with a view of the avant-garde coliseum-style Vancouver Public Library. He introduced me to his new friend, Slimey (a rather limp and lanky but well-stuffed frog who was soon to become much leaner).

“This is my new friend, Toulouse!” Oli barked between a mouthful of green slime. We greeted one another in the way that stuffed animals do—with a slight nod of respect. Slimey was Oli’s Christmas present and it looked like Oli had already introduced Slimey to the place—in the Oli way; I noticed little fluffy bits of stuffing here and there and it looked like Slimey was developing a sore throat.

That was when I suggested we go for a walk. Oli danced around the apartment, overjoyed to show me his new neighborhood and the sites. He proudly took me down the elevator to the street and we struck left into the heart of Yaletown.

Toulouse drinks exquisite hot chocolate at Blenz

We strolled past the crowded Blue Water Café & Raw Bar on Hamilton Street, which serves a delicious selection of seafood from raw oysters to bouillabaisse. Oli pointed out Milestones Grill & Bar, George Lounge and Capones, which serves great spicy pizza. We stopped at Blenz Coffee on Helmcken Street, one of Oli’s favorite places. Besides a generally decent coffee, Blenz offers a nice heated patio where we sampled one of the richest hot chocolates in the country.

Oli introduces me to Slimey

Further down the street, near the corner of Davie Street, I pointed out the Hapa Izakaya to Oli. He stared. “Hapa what?”

Oysters at the Oyster House in Yaletown

I laughed. “It’s a Japanese bar that serves finger-snacks, something like a tapas bar but with liquor.”  Izakayas are the hottest new style of Japanese eating establishment in North America and sprouting in all the trendy parts of cities in North America. They focus on visiting and socializing; a style that is growing in trendy parts of town.

Oli then led me down Davie Street, past Urban Fare, Yaletown’s gourmet grocery store, to the waterfront: one of his favorite places. And I knew why… I’d never in my life seen so many well-dressed dogs in one place! Yaletown is known for its yuppy canine population. Go check out the gourmet pet stores! 

Gourmet groceries at Urban Fare

The cafe walk in Yaletown

Upwardly mobile and preppy in their bright and filigreed walking outfits, these ritsy dogs carry some serious “attitude”. Oli had come a long way from his Maritime roots in Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia. He’s still learning the ropes, I pondered, as a little chiwawa in a red cashmere turtleneck chased Oli in circles. Poor git; he’ll get it eventually. It’s a whole other culture.

After his typical exercise of chasing birds and introducing me to some of his extremely well dressed dog friends, Oli asked me if I wanted to take the little ferry boat across  to the Granville Island market.

I was tempted. Granville Island is a feast for the eyes and the taste buds. But just watching Oli had tired me out. We called it a day and went back to Oli’s flat to drink Fonseca Porto, eat brie and croissants and re-stuff Slimey for another day.

"Where'd Slimey go?" asks Oli...

I’m Toulouse the cool travel cat.