“We’re going out! My treat!” Nina announced. It was my turn to cook that evening. But Nina was so overjoyed to see me after the incident with the dog, she nixed that. Bonus!
Nina suggested the Grand Banker Seafood Bar & Grill on Montague Street in Lunenburg. It was a haunt of ours from when we first moved to Nova Scotia last November and we’d found the staff friendly and the food very good. The restaurant serves a great lobster dinner, possibly the best mussels in town and a very tasty pan-fried haddock with roasted vegetables and garlic mashed potatoes. Whenever we went there, we invariably met someone, often a CFA (“Coming from Away”) as opposed to NBAs (“Never Been Away”), with whom we shared interesting stories from all over the world. Not unlike Lunenburg itself, the Grand Banker was a gateway to the world.
The evening blushed with the warmth of summer, so we decided to sit outside. The outdoor patio is cozy (it only seats three small tables) but it commands a grand view of the harbor and working waterfront, currently full of boats being repaired, built or preparing to go somewhere.
Back in its early days, Lunenburg’s waterfront bustled day and night with boats coming and going to the Grand Banks and returning with bounties from the sea: cod, scallops, shrimp and haddock. Alan Creaser, the owner of The Grand Banker, is a native of Lunenburg from way back—his ancestors founded the community in 1753 and thrived on farming, fishing, shipbuilding and ocean-based commerce. The expansion of the fishing industry continued into the 20th Century and a host of associated businesses flourished along Lunenburg’s waterfront. Ship repairing and outfitting continued throughout the Second World War and, by the 1950s, Lunenburg was a mature fishing port with prosperous industrial and commercial sectors and hard-working population. In 1995, Lunenburg’s “Old Town” was added to the UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) World Heritage List and currently enjoys a mixed industry of tourism, art and ocean related commerce. Buildings, which housed ship chandleries, fish stores and warehouses now serve as craft shops, galleries and restaurants and a museum.
I found it only fitting that Creaser, whose passion for sailing the world, named his restaurant/pub the Grand Banker. According to Creaser, only fishermen who sailed the schooners of Lunenburg and braved the Atlantic waters of the Grand Banks to fish earned the title of “Grand Banker”. Creaser, whose broad boyish smile matched the twinkle in his eyes, bought the complex of two hotels and restaurant/pub in 1997 and immediately did revisions to “open up” the place. “You couldn’t see in or out!” he lamented. He converted the old balcony into indoor seating with a prime view of the waterfront, then he put in a cozy bar by the entrance and hired Norm, affectionately known to the community as the “publican” (the man of mystery…:-3) to manage the place.
As we watched the tourists ambling along the waterfront docks and plank walkways, Amber brought us an iced tea (I was trying to stay away from liquor for a little while after
surgery) and we selected their signature soup and salad: a honey roasted apple and butternut squash soup with mixed salad. “Roasting,” they say, “brings out the intense earthy sweet flavor of Valley apples and locally grown squash.” The added coconut milk added a silky texture. The salad that accompanied the exquisite thick soup consisted of tender baby spinach leaves tossed with smoked almonds, dried cranberries and various cheeses, topped with red onions and a citrous honey and poppy seed vinaigrette. The combination of sweet and tangy was refreshing and tasted of summer.
Dusk descended upon us and Nina announced that we needed to go indoors because her computer was running out of battery juice. I knew better: she was drawn by all the hollering and laughter inside; every time the door opened, raucous sounds of cheerful banter spilled out like honey ale. I checked the date: was it Thursday? Every Thursday the “Liars Club”—a small group of old salty guys—congregate at the bar and trade… well… lies. Nina would call that “storytelling”… :-3
We moved inside and Nina sidled to the bar where Mallory took Nina’s order of hot tea. She knew better than to order a coffee here after Switzerland! The coffee is ok—like most Nova Scotian coffee—but nothing like Swiss café crème. I recall that the Banker special coffee is pretty fine though. Mallory then made the “mistake” of making a mango
margarita right in front of us. Seeing my interest she gave me a shot glass of leftover “tequila smoothy” (I think she liked me). Nina watched me drink it down. It was smooth and had just the right balance of liquor and mango mush to pack a sweet punch. My whiskers bristled with joy and Nina instantly ordered one for herself.
Mallory laughed apologetically. “I’m sorry, that was the last of the mango…”
Nina was crushed. Liam, the bartender, leapt to the rescue. He went to the storehouse freezer to get some and
proceeded to defrost the very frozen mango mush. Nina got her drink. Liam, like several of the staff, is an accomplished musician and plays down the street along with an eclectic local group of singers, fiddlers and drummers. And speaking of…
We were soon joined by a crowd of young drinkers, who were eagerly debating how to create a new drink with Bailey’s and whether “straight up” was the same as “neat”. Seated at the bar, clustered in lively discussion were Steven, Amber, Mallory, Anna, Pat and Bubb. Pat works at the Mariner King, another fine dining establishment in Lunenburg with history dating back to the adventurous King William of England in the 1780s. I was passed from one to the next and ended up on Anna Ludlow’s shoulder. Anna Ludlow is one of Nova Scotia’s rising stars, an energetic and scintillating fiddler in the Cape Breton Celtic style. After reluctantly surrendering me back to Nina, Anna invited us to the Old Fish Factory next Wednesday to watch her play the fiddle with the Junk Bucket boys. Bonus!
All said and done, it was a good day and a wonderful celebration… I’m Toulouse, the COOL Travel Cat… :-3
Here’s a cool fact: did you know that Lunenburg was featured on the back of the Canadian 100 dollar bill from 1975 to the 1990s? Here it is.
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