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Chicago Gourmet Chocolate: Vosges Haut Chocolat

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Vosges Haut Chocolate exotic truffles

“…And it *melts*, God forgive me, it melts ever so slowly on your tongue, and tortures you with pleasure.”—Ivette Marceau, Chocolat

I am Toulouse LeTrek, the COOL Travel Cat, epicurean, sommelier, and gourmet of all things wonderful. I adore chocolate. However, for someone who loves chocolate as much as I do, I indulge in very little of it. You won’t see me in the 7-Eleven or Walgreens buying an over-the-counter candy bar like Kit Kat (edible Kat? How disgusting!) or Cadbury’s Caramilk Bar. You might call me a chocolate snob. I’d prefer to call myself a chocolate gourmet.

I treat chocolate like I treat coffee (that’s right, you won’t see me buying coffee at the local gas station or helping myself to free coffee at the bank or Tim Horton’s—sorry TH coffee fans; though their donuts are another matter). Chocolate—like coffee—is meant to be celebrated. Chocolate is a sensual gift: to be anticipated with delight, joyfully embraced, slowly inhaled and caressed with your tongue.

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Vosges Haut Chocolat's Red Fire Bar

When I’m not adventuring in Switzerland, loitering at Sprüngli on Bahnhofstrasse or Café Schober on Napfgasse in Altstadt  Zurich, or in Europe generally—in other words, when I am in North America—I continually find myself on a quest in the most unlikely places for something beyond the norm; something exotic. Something surprising.

I discovered such a gem at the Wine Store on funky Bardstown Road in Louisville Kentucky. There, on the front counter, along with other enticing wine accoutrements, sat a display of fine chocolate bars by Vosges Haut Chocolat. There was hope for good chocolate!

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Vosges Mountain Range in France

Vosges is the name of a mountain range in northeast France parallel to the Rhine River with rounded summits. But it’s also the name founder Kristina Markoff gave to her new chocolaterie that she opened in Chicago in 1998.

My gaze swept the bold selection of Vosges chocolate bars whose exotic names triggered reveries of world travel and adventure; names like Black Pearl, Red Fire, Oaxaca, Blood Orange Caramel, Goji, and Woolloomooloo. I let my gaze finally rest on the Marzipan Bar, made with Sicilian almond marzipan, amaretto and dark chocolate (62% cacao and at least 38% cacao solids). Marzipan is made by grinding sweet and bitter almonds with sugar to create a dense paste. Germans create a pig-figurine in the New Year to give them good luck and Italians often sculpt the paste into fruit shapes. Marzipan—good marzipan that is moist and smooth and not overly sweet—is an “Old World” confection that breathes out a complex and elegant sensual experience of aroma, taste and texture.

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Toulouse with his prize: Vosges Marzipan and Rex Hill

Curious about a North American’s version of a confectionary dominated by Europeans, I bought a bar along with a Rex Hill Pinot Noir and took it home to enjoy. I have to admit I was delightfully surprised: this chocolate bar was every bit as good as its foreign counterparts including Niederegger Lubeck Marzipan Classic, Schluckwerder Chocolate Covered Marzipan Loaves, Mozart-Wurtel Schocolade mit Marzipan, and the Anthon Berg marzipan line.  I felt my whiskers tremble at the complex fusion of almond, amaretto, and buttery smooth cacoa. The moist almond paste and amaretto enveloped in smooth dark chocolate sang an elegant symphony of flavors in my mouth. My nose twitched with pleasure and my little pink tongue licked my lips, gathering every last bit of heaven. I couldn’t help it. I thought: Oh, now I must go try Mo’s Dark Chocolate Bacon Bar, made with applewood bacon and alderwood smoked salt plus 62% dark chocolate! It is apparently the rage with chocolate lovers  in North America, besotted with Vosges. Expect the unexpected with Vosges.

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Owner/Chocolatier Katrina Markoff

If you live in Chicago you are indeed fortunate! Vosges Haut Chocolat set up shop in Chicago, with stores located on 520 North Michigan Avenue, 951 West Armitage Avenue and 2211 N Elston Ave # 203, and O’Hare Airport. Chicagoans can simply walk into a Vosges and drool over the shelves of exotic truffles (e.g., with exotic fillings of the essence of violets, curry, paprika, ginger and wasabi, coconut, Kirsch and star anise), drinking chocolates, soft bacon caramel, and flying chocolate pig. Vosges have since put stores in New York and Las Vegas.

Owner/Chocolatier Katrina Markoff takes her chocolate seriously. So seriously that on every chocolate bar, she prescribes a full-bodied sensual recipe on how to fully enjoy an exotic it. Her recipe on the marzipan bar went like this:

See: there should be a glossy shine to the chocolate bar indicating a tight bond between the cocoa butter and the cocoa mass.

Smell: rub your thumb on the chocolate bar’s surface to help release the fruity, cacao laden aromas. Inhale deeply.

Taste: place a small piece of chocolate on your tongue and press it to the roof of your mouth. Within thirty seconds the chocolate square will melt, releasing a bouquet of candied almond and vanilla amongst the finish of dark chocolate.

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Mo's Bacon Chocolate Bar

Katrina personally chooses every rare spice, flower and premium chocolate flown into their Chicago kitchen and utilizes the original methods of French confectionery artistry, which she learned during her training at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris. Vosges chocolates have exotic influences of an “East meets West” theme. Their mission is to create a luxury chocolate experience rooted in a sensory journey of bringing about awareness to indigenous cultures through the exploration of spices, herbs, roots, flowers, fruits, nuts, chocolate and the obscure. Written on each 100% recycled chocolate bar wrapper is a unique story behind the exotic and often surprising mixture of spices and flavors that showcases an indigenous culture or people.

Seeing that we are fast approaching Valentine’s Day, here’s my suggestion: if there is a place in your town that sells Vosges Haut Chocolat, buy this cocaine of chocolates and offer a piece of this ambrosia to a loved one, even if it’s yourself. Your loved one will love you for it. And if that’s you, well, you’re going to love yourself all the more!

I recently sent my good friend Pigcat in Toronto a Vosges Haut Chocolat Marzipan Bar for Valentine’s Day, along with some gourmet coffee. I await her rapt response. Apparently, you cannot get Vosges chocolate in Toronto, to the great lament of many Torontonians. Perhaps someone should tell Katrina to open a store there…

The Search for the Best Chocolate in the World…

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Fleur de Sel caramel chocolate

Some professed chocolate experts adamantly insist that any search for the best chocolate in the world start with France. What makes France so important? They have a point: as with all things relating to food, the French government strictly legislates the production of chocolate. Regulations prohibit the use of any vegetable or animal fat in French chocolate and only pure cocoa butter is authorized. French chocolates must also contain at least 43% cocoa liquor, and a minimum of 26% pure cocoa butter. Most French chocolates now contain well above the government’s minimum of cocoa liquor. The best French chocolates boast up to 80% of dark rich cocoa liquor. And, since cocoa liquor gives chocolate its rich taste, it’s not surprising that French chocolates remain some of the best in the world. Names such as Valhrona, RICHART, Maison du Chocolat, Pascal Chaffet and Michel Cluizel come to mind.

Because the flavor and nuances of chocolate also depend on the quality and origin of the cocoa beans used to make it, it makes sense to see who uses the best chocolate beans. The best chocolates beans come from Venezuela, Brazil, the Ivory Coast, Madagascar, Central America and the Caribbean. Two of the top chocolatiers (e.g., France’s Valhona and Tuscany’s Amedei, both of which have won Gold Medals by the Academy of Chocolate in London in various categories for Best Chocolate in the World) use cacao beans from a small town in Venezuela called Chuao.

Why Chocolate is Good for You…

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Mayan chief protecting his pot of hot chocolate

Besides the sheer pleasure chocolate gives us, it’s also good for your health—if eaten in moderation (like all good things in life). Some researchers found that chocolate, eaten in moderation, can also lower blood pressure. Cocoa or dark chocolate can help your circulatory system. Chocolate may prevent coughs, act as an antidiarhoeal and anticancer agent.

Chocolate may also stimulate brain activity. A study reported by the BBC showed that melting chocolate in your mouth increases brain activity and heart rate more intensely than a passionate kiss, and the effect also lasts four times as long. Cocoa solids contain alkaloids like theobromine and phenethylamine, which have physiological effects on the body. These have been linked to seratonin levels in the brain.

Too much chocolate can lead to obesity. And, because chocolate absorbs lead from the environment during production, some types of chocolate—if eaten in great quantities— may contribute to mild lead poisoning—as well as obesity. Well, the solution to that is a no-brainer, folks.

Ok… some of you might be wondering how a cat like me could enjoy chocolate when it’s been proven that theobromine in chocolate is toxic to dogs and cats, who can’t metabolize it. But, I’m no ordinary cat! I’m Toulouse, the COOL Travel Cat. I’m stuffed with wonder, coolness and fluffiness. Meow!

Happy Valentine’s Day!

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Ness and Pigcat clutch their prize

p.s. It’s Valentine’s Day today and I wanted to share what the Vosges chocolate I sent did to my dear friend Pigcat and her Auntie Ness! LOL! You can see some of Ness, Jenni and Pigcat’s reactions in the comments section too.

“Unfolding the foil, I was captivated into an aroma of dense, rich sultry chocolate. It took my imagination to a far off place: the rain had just fallen, the grinding of the cocoa bean,  the warmth of the resting sun, while the sound of the ocean was like a quiet heartbeat.

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Ness in haut chocolat extasy

“As the senses of smell and taste came together, the flavor began to reveal all the characteristics of something rich.  Dancing notes of almond, exquisite with notes of soft sugar resting nicely but not overpowering. I had to close my eyes and both taste and sense came together.  I have never tasted something so refined, unless it was of course a wine that has been perfectly aged with great care.

Absolute perfection and highly addictive.”

p.p.s. BACON + CHOCOLATE??? The next day, I just had to try Vosges’ provokative Dark Bacon Bar… Not sure whether I’d like this admittedly strange combination of salty, savory and sweet, I did precisely as Katrina suggested: I closed my eyes, inhaled deeply, putting myself in the present moment. I rubbed my paw over the chocolate bar, releasing the aroma of smoked Applewood bacon flirting with Alderwood smoked salt and seductive dark chocolate. I snapped off a tiny piece, put in my mouth and let the “lust of salt and sweet” coat my little pink tongue. Yes, it was wonderful. A surprise. Katrina admits that she’d started experimenting with chocolate and bacon at the tender age of six. The wisdom of children, eh?… :-3

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Walking Trendy Yaletown Vancouver

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Yaletown waterfront

After my cockapoo friend Oli travelled across Canada from the Maritimes to trendy Yaletown in downtown Vancouver on the west coast, I knew I had to find an excuse to go visit. My opportunity came early when my good friend, SF writer Nina Munteanu, flew to Vancouver for Christmas. So, I tagged along and as Nina visited with family and friends in various suburbs, I hung out with Oli in hip Yaletown.

Yaletown got its name in the 19th century when the Canadian Pacific Railroad moved its rail yards and repair facilities from Yale in the Fraser River canyon to the north shore of False Creek—now called Yaletown. Called Vancouver’s little “Soho”, this old industrial part of town experienced a face-lift in the 1980s and emerged as downtown’s trendiest residential neighborhood of urban professionals. The popular seven-block area now provides a landscape of quality restaurants, cafés, boutiques, spas and galleries to local yuppies who live in industrial-retro studio flats and tourists who like to eat great food, experience a health spa or visit an avant-gard art gallery. Old brick warehouses have morphed into lofts and railway loading docks now serve as patio space for martini bars.

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Yaletown with view of Vancouver Library

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The Vancouver Public Library

Oli lives in a high-rise condominium on Homer Street with a view of the avant-garde coliseum-style Vancouver Public Library. He introduced me to his new friend, Slimey (a rather limp and lanky but well-stuffed frog who was soon to become much leaner).

“This is my new friend, Toulouse!” Oli barked between a mouthful of green slime. We greeted one another in the way that stuffed animals do—with a slight nod of respect. Slimey was Oli’s Christmas present and it looked like Oli had already introduced Slimey to the place—in the Oli way; I noticed little fluffy bits of stuffing here and there and it looked like Slimey was developing a sore throat.

That was when I suggested we go for a walk. Oli danced around the apartment, overjoyed to show me his new neighborhood and the sites. He proudly took me down the elevator to the street and we struck left into the heart of Yaletown.

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Toulouse drinks exquisite hot chocolate at Blenz

We strolled past the crowded Blue Water Café & Raw Bar on Hamilton Street, which serves a delicious selection of seafood from raw oysters to bouillabaisse. Oli pointed out Milestones Grill & Bar, George Lounge and Capones, which serves great spicy pizza. We stopped at Blenz Coffee on Helmcken Street, one of Oli’s favorite places. Besides a generally decent coffee, Blenz offers a nice heated patio where we sampled one of the richest hot chocolates in the country.

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Oli introduces me to Slimey

Further down the street, near the corner of Davie Street, I pointed out the Hapa Izakaya to Oli. He stared. “Hapa what?”

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Oysters at the Oyster House in Yaletown

I laughed. “It’s a Japanese bar that serves finger-snacks, something like a tapas bar but with liquor.”  Izakayas are the hottest new style of Japanese eating establishment in North America and sprouting in all the trendy parts of cities in North America. They focus on visiting and socializing; a style that is growing in trendy parts of town.

Oli then led me down Davie Street, past Urban Fare, Yaletown’s gourmet grocery store, to the waterfront: one of his favorite places. And I knew why… I’d never in my life seen so many well-dressed dogs in one place! Yaletown is known for its yuppy canine population. Go check out the gourmet pet stores! 

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Gourmet groceries at Urban Fare

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The cafe walk in Yaletown

Upwardly mobile and preppy in their bright and filigreed walking outfits, these ritsy dogs carry some serious “attitude”. Oli had come a long way from his Maritime roots in Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia. He’s still learning the ropes, I pondered, as a little chiwawa in a red cashmere turtleneck chased Oli in circles. Poor git; he’ll get it eventually. It’s a whole other culture.

After his typical exercise of chasing birds and introducing me to some of his extremely well dressed dog friends, Oli asked me if I wanted to take the little ferry boat across  to the Granville Island market.

I was tempted. Granville Island is a feast for the eyes and the taste buds. But just watching Oli had tired me out. We called it a day and went back to Oli’s flat to drink Fonseca Porto, eat brie and croissants and re-stuff Slimey for another day.

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"Where'd Slimey go?" asks Oli...

I’m Toulouse the cool travel cat.

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Refurbished industrial buildings house shops and bistros

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Toronto Adventures: Get Sizzling at the Hot House Café

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The Hot House Cafe with view of Flatiron Building

Shortly after I reached Toronto, I looked up an old British friend of mine, Pigcat—now residing near High Park in West Toronto. She invited me to the Hothouse Café next to the St. Lawrence market in downtown Toronto for lunch and to reminisce over a classy “hot” meal; she knew my tastes in food!

Pigcat isn’t her real name. Her human companion, Vanessa, calls her “Cat Teddy”. But Vanessa doesn’t know about Pigcat’s old friendship with me, and the endearing nickname she’d come by in her community due to the obvious…(little cat grin). I’d met Pigcat during my travels, when she was still in the UK, living in Brighton, West Sussex, where our mutual passion for travel, fine dining and dark chocolate cemented a long-lasting friendship. I was overjoyed to see her again here in Toronto.

Elinor, the smartly-dressed and graceful Maitre-d and general manager, welcomed us with a warm smile and took us to

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Toulouse meets an old friend

 our seats in the enclosed patio beneath one of the colorful umbrellas with a view of the historic Saint Lawrence neighborhood. After a lively discussion about cats, loyal companions and Stonehenge, Elinor left us to make our choices.

As Pigcat peered intensely at her menu, I gazed past the diaphanous fan of black locust trees to the rust-colored four and a half-storey Gooderham Building (Flatiron building), a wedge-shaped work of art that stands at the apex of Front, Wellington and Church Streets like the bow of a great ship. Designed by architect David Roberts Jr., the building was erected in 1892 to house the headquarters of George Gooderham’s large industrial and commercial empire. This Victorian building reflects a gothic revival and Romanesque style and predates the iconic Flatiron Building in New York by a decade. It is arguably the most photographed building in Toronto. Prominent features include the copper roof, decorative dormers, tower with ogee arch windows, textured façade and zig-zag fire escape stairway, which reminded me of the Chelsea district of New York City.  My eyes were drawn to the contrasting but pleasing backdrop of the modern Toronto skyscraper skyline with the trendy retro funk of Old Town, one of the best-preserved 19th century commercial blocks in the city. What an ideal place to dine, I thought, and was reminded of a café’ I used to frequent at Place Saint-Michel in Paris with a view past plane trees to the fountain of Saint-Michel slaying the devil.

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Toulouse savors his delicious meal

Krystel, our waitress, took our order. I chose the Sicilian Gnocchi, elegant hand-made potato dumplings with cremini mushrooms and pancetta bacon, swimming in a gorgonzola cream sauce that married elegant flavors with the zest of garlic and basil. The gnocchi came with a colorful mixed vegetable dish, cooked to perfect texture. I selected a 2008 Fontamara Pinot Griggio (Abruzzo, Italy) from their eclectic wine list. The Fontamara, with its sweet aroma and notes of peach and apple on a fresh acidic backbone, was ideal for the warm sunny day.  Pigcat ordered the Black Aberdeen Angus Rib Eye steak, grilled to her exact specification and topped with a slab of porcini butter. She wisely chose a Guinness with it.  I had fun watching her meow little sighing breaths with each juicy bite she took. It was the best steak she’d had in years—possibly ever! declared Pigcat.  The café staff pride themselves on the consistent excellence of its signature soups, salads, entrés, pastas, gourmet pizettes, sandwiches and burgers and vegetarian dishes. Oh, and exquisite deserts and coffees!

Five minutes later, the suave and charming owner of the cafe, Andrew Laffey—a young Cary Grant look-a-like —arrived with a beaming smile.

“I just had to meet Toulouse!” he said, extending his hand in greeting.

Between the main course and dessert, he and wife, Elinor, the general manager of the café, treated me to a tour of their cool—well, hot!— restaurant. 

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Owners Andrew, hostess Aaron and Elinor enjoy lively discussion with Toulouse

They had commissioned architect Dermet Sweeny to create the Hot House Café with a spacious art-nouveau European look, including multi-levels and high ceilings with drop lights and hardwood floors. The café was brightly elegant, from the stylized “clean”art of Russian artist Leon Belsky on the walls to the avant-garde interior design of Mary Winefield that included displays of vintage wines and spices, rich furniture and colours with clean lines.  The place blended nicely into the “persona” of the trendy Old Town/art-nouveau look of the St Lawrence Market neighborhood.

During my tour, Elinor took me round to the back of the restaurant, which housed several elegant rooms used for lunch meetings , workshops and mini-conferences. We then sidled past the bar run by the indominable Kevin, who can serve up practically anything from a Taylor Fladgate 20 year old Tawny Port to a HotHouse Martini, which consists of pomegranate and green tea liqueurs, pomegranate blueberry juice and fresh lemonade. Now, that’s HOT!

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Elinor gives Toulouse the special tour

Returned to the patio, I rejoined the patient Pigcat and we rounded out our culinary experience with a coffee and dessert. I ordered an espresso with the dessert we decided to share. It was a toss up between the tiramisu and the molten chocolate cake and guess which won out. Yup. Drizzled with fresh raspberries and a fudge sauce, Pigcat and I proceeded to dig into our delicious chocolate “volcano”.  The inside scintillated with a molten chocolate lava that flowed over dark cake into a sea of fudge. OMG! … Meow… :-3

Now I know why it’s called the Hot House Café!  The Hot House Café is open for lunch, dinner and late nights, serving up consistently wonderful food and an eclectic choice of wines and beers by friendly and efficient staff. Known particularly for their awesome Sunday brunches and pasta dishes and desserts, their clientele ranges from the Bay Street set to Leafs fans, area residents & theatre patrons. What’s there not to like! Go check it out and agree… meow… Oh, and say hi to Andrew, Elinor, Aaron and Krystel for me!

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Toulouse enjoys a "molten" experience

I’m Toulouse LeTrek, the COOL Travel Cat!

 

 

Contact Information: The Hot House Café is located on the corner of Church and Front Street in Market Square (35 Church Street) Toronto, Ontario; 416-366-7800; www.hothousecafe.com. The Hot House Café is open from 11 am

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Toulouse shares molten ambrosia with Pigcat

until 11 pm on weekdays and 1:00 am on weekends, including from brunch (9:30 am) to 11 pm on Sundays.

This site is powered by donations. For your reading pleasure I do not clutter it with advertizing; nor do I charge any of these fine establishments, events or places for my reviews. If you are a patron who enjoys my articles or at the receiving end of one of my reviews you can show your appreciation with a donation (see right top sidebar). 

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Eating and Drinking Our Way Through Nova Scotia: The Trellis Café

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Toulouse enjoys his lemonade at the Trellis Cafe

“Let’s stop here,” Nina said to my non-verbal suggestion. She’s very good at listening to me that way. She would tell you that it was the “character” of the building, its inviting patio with al fresco dining and all the cars parked out front (always a good sign)—oh, and perhaps the inviting sounds of live music that drifted out through the open doors. Of course, all these helped…wink.

The Trellis Cafe is located in Hubbards, a charming rural community on the South Shore of Nova Scotia, not far from Peggy’s Cove and right on the scenic coastal road of the South Shore known as the Lighthouse Route. First settled in 1757 by the Dauphinee brothers, Hubbards became a thriving fishing community and now enjoys a popularity with tourists as a destination for recreation and sightseeing.

We opened the screen door and were greeted by a cozy and bright maritime-cottage interior, done tastefully in cheerful yellows, reds and oranges. Plates were displayed on the wall as were some local artwork. The windows,

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Hubbards Cove, Nova Scotia

under charming striped awnings, currently displayed the works of Grant and Janis Cobb (of Grunts Glass Studio).  Tables were garnished with grinders of Tellicherry black pepper and Mediterranean sea salt. I was told that the table candles came from the local TV series Black Harbor.

Wilma Raaymaker and Dennis Mansour had come to Hubbards—“a place where people have chosen to live” says Wilma—and Wilma bought The Trellis Café four years ago. Their motto is “Real Food since 1985” and they proudly serve home cooked meals with fresh ingredients and fresh-ground Fair Trade organic coffee. Of course it isn’t Swiss café crème but it was very good. The Trellis preferentially uses local ingredients, Wilma told us, and their cooks take pride in the “down-home” healthy food that is baked and made totally on the premises. “Tasting the fresh goodness of the earth makes food an edible symphony,” says Wilma.

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Singer John DeWolf teaches Toulouse some guitar

We ordered a Greek salad and smoked salmon quiche with goat’s cheese and asparagus and paired it nicely with a vibrant French Cross Pinot Grigio. The quiche came with the Trellis’s signature “home fries” (fried potatoes, really), which I confess I scarfed most of. When Nina asked our waitress to tell her what wonderful spices were used, Jenny grinned and said she’d have to kill her if she did. We decided not to know. :-3

While we were there, we were treated to the excellent light jazz sounds of the Caissie-DeWolfe Duo. We feasted on a desert of moist chocolate cake paired with a Rothchild Pinot Noir, as George Caissie played the xylophones to DeWolfe’s guitar picking. They sang anything from a Billie Joel tune to a hypnotic Bossa Nova and I found myself swaying and little paw tapping to the lyrical Brazilian rhythm.

We’ve come back a few times already and tasted several of their deserts including the bumbleberry crisp, featured in South Shore Tastes (Nimbus Publishing), and defined by Wilma as: seven south shore sumptuous surprises (blueberry, blackberry, raspberry, strawberry, rhubarb, apple and cherry) in one Nova Scotia flavor.

On one occasion a group of local musicians sauntered in holding guitar cases. They sat around a table and just began

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Local musicians jamming at the Trellis Cafe

 to sing and play. Three guitars, a concertina and lively voices sang out a medley of folk, pop tunes and ballads—some originally composed, I later learned. Don Webb, Holly and others were the Thursday night jam-crowd and it was Thursday night.

Wilma told us that a local musician or group also plays every Friday and Saturday night (like the Caissie-DeWolfe Duo, among others). And every month The Trellis Café features a different local artist. The art varies from the glass art of Grant and Janis Cobb and Teresa Young to the nautical water colors and landscape acrylics of Suzanne Day and Paulette Melanson and Bedford artist James Pay. The Trellis has also served as a gallery for hooked rugs, photography and local pottery. Many of these, Wilma informed us, served as fundraisers for local non-profit societies, including an annual school childrens’ art festival.

The Trellis Café is more than a place to eat and drink: it’s a social club, Wilma told us as the jam-group serenaded us with a lyrical Crosby, Stills and Nash tune. I looked around at the packed room of laughing and chatting locals—everyone seemed to know each other—and heartily agreed. It’s all about community. “It’s my community,” Wilma added. Where she raised her kids. A community she is nurturing by providing a meeting place for local talent and local fun and great food.

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Wilma relaxes for two minutes with Toulouse

If you want to find the character of Nova Scotia, check out the Trellis Cafe. It’s the place where you’ll find the locals … and the characters … ;-3

They are open year round for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Contact Information for the Trellis Café:

22 Main Street, Hubbards, NS; 902-857-1188; www.trelliscafe.com

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Traveling in Switzerland: The Riviera of Lake Lucerne

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The boat dock at Vitznau on Lake Lucerne

“Turn here!” I directed Nina, who cheerfully swerved the car into a one-lane road without blinking an eye. I love her for that. We wound our way up and down a switchback lane through sub-alpine meadows past Swiss cows, bells clanging, and quaint Swiss barns and farmhouses. Then wound up at a dead-end right on the shores of Lake Lucerne: Treib.

Nina glanced from me to the quaint ferry/inn/funicular complex and grinned. We’d discovered another gem. She knew better than to question my navigation and map-reading skills; she had absolutely none herself. I didn’t tell her that I was just choosing places to drive out of a tapestry of intuition, smell, logic and just plain random choice. We were on an adventure, after all, and getting lost was a prerequisite. :-3 Just kidding; we were never really lost. I knew where we were: we were in Central Switzerland and we were driving around Lake Lucerne.

After we made our home base at the excellent Schloss Hotel, in the charming village of Merlischachen, we decided to circumnavigate the lake. This would involve driving on small twisting roads and through several tunnels. Lake Lucerne is called the Vierwaldstättersee (“lake of the four forested Cantons”) and is the fourth largest lake in Switzerland at 114 sq. km. Its meandering arms span from Lucerne through steep valleys beneath 1,500 foot-high mountains like Rigi, Pilatus and Oberbuenstock.

We started our drive through Küssnacht, located at the end of a long bay, named–yep–the Küssnachter See. The bay is part of a larger valley that connects the chain of Bernese Alps from Interlacken to Zug. We took the scenic Hwy 2b along the north-east shore of the lake, through some of the oldest communities of Switzerland such as Weggis, Vitznau, Gersau, and Brunnen. This area is commonly known as the “Riviera of Central Switzerland” and provides the second largest tourist destination in the Canton of Lucerne.

The ancient town of Weggis

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View of Lake Lucerne from Mount Rigi

(which means “place of the ferry man” in Celtic) dates as far back as 1332 and lies at the base of Mount Rigi. People there enjoy a very mild climate. Attractions include the aerial tramway to Rigi-Kaltbad, close to Känzeli. From Rigi-Kaltbad you can climb the mountain on the cog railway (Vitznau-Rigi-Bahn) and get some awesome viewing.

The picturesque village of Vitznau, at the foot of Mount Rigi, is a good starting point for excursions around the lake. Historic paddlewheel steamers and saloon motor vessels stop here and take you to places like Lucerne, Pilatus, Stanserhorn, Bürgenstock, Klewenalp and Seelisberg. The Vitznau-Rigi railway also stops here and takes you to the Kulm of Rigi (1798 m) with a truly breathtaking panoramic view across the Alps, that includes thirteen lakes, all the way to Germany and France. Over a hundred kilometers of trails descend the mountain, through flowers-rich meadows (over 1,000 species I was told). From Vitznau you can also take a cableway to Hinterbergen, a hotel-restaurant which commands a wonderful view from its sun terrace. Another cableway takes you to Wissifluh Mountain Restaurant where a lot of trails begin.

The first thing we saw on the waterfront of Vitznau, was the Hotel Rigibahn, a classy big hotel built in 1873 by the railway. In 1930 they designed the striking Bauhaus style Restaurant Rondel as the first dancing hall on Lake Lucerne. It swings out over the lake and still has all its original furniture from 1930. It looked closed and was

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Carston and Toulouse at the Rotschuo

undergoing major renovations—in time for the summer crowd, no doubt—so, sadly Nina and I missed the opportunity to test the quality of its café crème.

We did, however, stop at the restaurant Paradies Hotel Rotschuo, a few miles farther down the road. The hotel-restaurant lay nestled into the craggy shoreline with a breathtaking view of the lake and hotel grounds from the terrace. The restaurant offered elegant dining with classic décor of red and white. Nina and I enjoyed a wonderful tomato basil soup with cream (9.5 FCH) followed by a pork steak with asparagus and Hollandaise sauce and young potatoes (46 FCH). We paired the meal with a hearty German wheat beer, a Hacker-Pschorr Weissebeir, which made Nina very happy. When Nina’s happy so am I… :-3

Thank you, Tony, Stephan and Carston!

Gersau, like Vitznau offers connections to scenic trails and railcar rides up the Rigi-Scheidegg. Today, two cable-cars lead to the area: on the Gersau side, one goes from Gschwänd to Rigi-Burggeist, about 100 metres below the Scheidegg and a second from the Kräbel stop on the Arth-Rigi railway line up to the Rigi-Scheidegg plateau.

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View of Lake Lucerne from Brunnen

At Brunnen, we took Hwy 2 south to Flüelen, at the southern end of the steeply sided Urnersee. The Alpine Reuss River enters the lake at Flüelen. On our way there I had to keep reminding Nina to watch the road as she slowed to a near-snail’s pace to look at the scenery. I couldn’t fault her as I stared at the steep mountains (over 3,000 feet) of the Urner See’s western shore.  Peaks of the Neider Bauen Chulm and Oberbuenstock provided scenic foreground to the snowy Alps of Uri Rotstock and Brunnistock (2,952 m).

Located beneath the scenic snow-capped summits of the Urner and Glaris Alps, the small town of Flüelen became a transshipment point on the trade routes over the Gotthard pass and along the lake. We had one of my top five café crèmes at the Café Seehof (Hotel Hirschen) there. They hadn’t yet opened for supper but kindly served us coffee that made my whiskers curl. :-3

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View of Fluelen from Seelisberg

The next day, we drove in the other direction, in search of the majestic mansion I’d glimpsed from the road to Flüelen. We drove west, through Meggan and Lucerne, then south on the autobahn to Stansstad. From there we took the main road east past the Burgenstock ridge that divides the main body of the lake into two parallel sub-basins. We drove along the southern basin called Buochser See.

Near Beckenreid and with no clear idea, I directed Nina to veer off the main road—well, that’s what she does: veer. We ended up on a narrow country road that twisted its way up pastoral countryside. My nose took us right there. We passed Emmetten, then rounded a corner into Seelisberg and there it was: the splendid mansion I’d seen. Nina took in a breath of astonishment.

Across the street from the mansion, a park with an expansive view of the Urner See beckoned. Nina didn’t need my prompt to park there. Charged with a celebratory glass of rose wine, we entered the park on the edge of the world. A truly breathtaking vista opened before us of Lake Lucerne and the Rütli meadow. Nina grinned as I pointed out the resort town of Brunnen to the north and where we’d driven along the steep eastern shoreline beneath the majestic Fronalstock and the Rophaeen (2078 m) mountains. The Riemenstalden ravine that divided these summits descended to the tiny village of Sisikon. And to the south, at the end of the steep basin on the delta of the Ruess River, I saw the

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Park in Seelisberg

village of Flüelen, where we’d enjoyed that marvelous café crème.

From the park we crossed the road to the mansion and read the sign “Welcome to the International Capital of the Age of Enlightenment”. Known as little Seelisberg, this converted Victorian hotel on the village outskirts is home to the Maharishi Ayur-Veda Health Centre that offers everything from a one-day massage treatment for Fr.300, to a two-week residential cure for Fr.4000. From 1968 to 1992 it served as the global headquarters of the Transcendental Meditation movement headed by Maharishi Mahesh Yogi and is currently a school for TM.

A funicular from the northern end of the main street Seelisberg descends the cliff to the quaint old lakeside inn and boat station of Treib below. A short path from the top funicular station, leads to the Rütli meadow, where Confederation was founded, and the start of a pleasant 35 km scenic trail to Platz der Auslandschweizer in Brunnen.   

Which leads me back to Wirtshaus zur Treib, on the shores of Lake Lucerne; run by Irena and Siggy, and where Nina and I shared a delicious Weinerschniztel capped by a “mystery” Treib Café Spécial.

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Ferry arriving at Treib

Happy with our adventure, we entered the inn with thoughts of food and drink. We were treated to a rustic original interior, with thick beamed ceiling, original windows of bottle-bottom glass (called crown glass or Butzenfenster), and decorated with Swiss traditional farming implements and some awesome cow bells. Irena proudly pointed out one huge bell with ornamental girdle that was a gift to her on her fiftieth birthday.

The inn and restaurant Wirtshaus zur Treib was originally built in the late 1400s as a shelter to protect people from the stormy southerly wind, called “Föhn”, around the Lake of Uri.

After devouring several Treib special coffees, Nina asked Irena what was in the drink; Irena coyly refused to divulge the “secret recipe”. She claimed that a chaotic mixture of various schnapps available during the day, collected into a “mystery” bottle—which she showed us, was added to the coffee, then topped with Swiss cream. Nina wasn’t buying it. She tried to sneak a peek after ordering another one but Irena was wise to her and kept her back between Nina and the drinks she was concocting. Way to go, Irena! Keep them guessing!

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Treib special coffees with schnapps!

Photos by Nina Munteanu & others

Contact information:Paradies Hotel Rotschuo

Seestrasse 158, 6442 Gersau
Hans-Werner Danckwardt, your host

Tel. +41 (0)41 828 22 66
Fax +41 (0)41 828 22 70
hotel@rotschuo.ch
www.rotschuo.ch

 

Wirtshaus zur Treib
CH-6377 Seelisberg
Phone: +41 (0)- 041 820 12 61
Fax: +41 (0)- 041 820 12 07

This site is powered by donations. For your reading pleasure I do not clutter it with advertizing; nor do I charge any of these fine establishments, events or places for my reviews. If you are a patron who enjoys my articles or at the receiving end of one of my reviews you can show your appreciation with a donation (see right top sidebar). 

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