A Happy Toulouse sips his Caipirinha on Lake Lucerne
Alexander, my new friend on Facebook, calls it “Caipirinha”. At least that’s how he advertizes this exotic drink at the Merula Bar that he and his wife Maira run on the shore of the Lake Lucerne in the little farming village of Merlischachen.
Located about 5 miles east of Lucerne, this charming village reflects the root of its name, which Alexander tells me loosely translates to “merry little town by the lake”. That’s only one story; the locals give several stories of how the place got its name. One is that it was named after a brave knight Hermanno de Merlischachen, who apparently lived in a tower on the peninsula where an estate called “Burg” (fortress) still exists today. Alexander told us that the name Merlischachen also derives from the Latin word “merula,” which means blackbird, and from the German word “Schachen,” meaning a small forest on a lake or stream; one of the reasons he called his bar the Merula Bar. Yet another story comes from the local coat of arms which is a green branch of an alder tree, “Erlenzweig,” hung with flowers and fruit on a gold background. It’s reminiscent of “im Erlischachen”, hence Merlischachen. While Nina gravitated to the romance of the knight (after googling him, she found nothing about this mysterious knight), I liked the “forest on a lake with blackbirds” explanation. It is an apt name for this quiet and charming village, where the only sound that stirs as you fall asleep each night is the constant lullaby of cow bells.
We were staying at the Schloss Hotel-Swiss Chalet complex in Merlischachen and during our daily walks in the
Lake Lucerne from Mount Rigi
village, we visited some of our Merlischachen friends, two Swiss cows grazing in a neighbor’s back yard, just below our suite. Our walk on the Schloss Hotel grounds park led us along Lake Lucerne. Called the Vierwaldstättersee (“lake of the four forested Cantons”) Lake Lucerne is the fourth largest lake in Switzerland with meandering arms that cut through steep valleys and stretch from the city of Lucerne to the mountains of Rigi and Pilatus.
Nina will tell you that she heard the lively music first; but I know that it was my impeccable nose for Croque Monsieur that led us down the park path from the Schloss Hotel to this lively cantina-bar. Other locals had already discovered this little haven on the lake and were basking in the warm sun with a great view of the Swiss Alps.
The Charming Village of Merlischachen
We ordered two Croque Monsieurs and were thinking about what local beer we hadn’t yet tried when Alexander suggested the Caipirinha. Immediately intrigued, Nina asked him what it was.
Caipirinha is a traditional Portuguese Brazilian drink prepared with Cachaça (pronounced Ka-SHA-sa), lime juice, sugar and ice, Alexander explained. He then proceeded to mesmerize Nina by showing us how this wonderful drink from Brazilian cane sugar brandy is made. First he created a juicy “mash” of fresh limes (both flesh and peels) with Ypioca (Cachaça) using a mortar and pestle. Then he added ice (some people like to use crushed ice but we had chunks of ice) and brown sugar to taste.
Cachaça is the essential ingredient in Caipirinha, the national spirit of Brazil, Alexander told us. It is the spirit of Carnival, “the spirit of a country enjoying life.” Cachaça is a product of sugar cane and has a character somewhat
Toulouse joins Alexander and Maira Eisenmann at the Merula Bar
similar to, though drier, than white rum (also made with cane sugar). However, while rum is produced from the molasses made from the sugar cane, Cachaça is produced directly from the juice of the cane. Ypióca Cachaça, the largest selling brand in Brazil, is produced only from the first crush. Locals drink Cachaça neat in small shot glasses. Others prefer a mix of Cachaça with lemon, passion fruit, tamarind, sugar and ice in a drink called a batida. Yet others drink it with limes, sugar and ice as a Caipirinha.
We sat on the patio and ate our Croque Monsieurs, feasting our eyes on the view of jeweled lake and snow-covered mountains. Within moments our exotic taste of Rio came. The potent and colorful “mash” of Caipirinha did an lively Spanish dance in my mouth and awoke my taste buds with a song of tart freshness. My whiskers curled with delight.
Nina laughed at me: “Your cheeks are puffing out again, Toulouse!”
She was one to talk; her cheeks were “puffing out” too… LOL!
Here is the recipe:
Ypioca Cachaça, the Brazilian ambrosia
Caipirinha is made using 1 lime cut into 4 pieces, 2 1/2 ounces Cachaça, 1 to 2 Tbs. fine cane sugar, and crushed ice. First you crush the pieces of lime with the sugar thoroughly, preferably with a mortar and pestle. Then you add the ice, Cachaça, and stir or shake well in a tumbler. The lime pieces should remain in the glass, adding brilliant color and texture to this playful and zesty drink.
Photos by Nina Munteanu
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