Place Jacques Cartier in Old Montreal
I was so happy to be back in Montreal, visiting with my old friend and writer Nina Munteanu and new friend, Vanessa Rottner (Pigcat’s companion in Toronto). We were in Montreal to participate in Con*Cept, Montreal’s annual science-fiction and fantasy convention, where Nina was launching her newest book, Outer Diverse (the first book of The Splintered Universe Trilogy, a space thriller) and Ness was launching her new jewelry line, The Rhea Hawke Collection (inspired by the gifted detective in the book).
The launch was FAB and we wanted to celebrate. I suggested Old Montreal (Vieux Montréal), a historical enclave by the water, whose architecture, cobbled streets and horse-drawn carriages basked with the charm of the earliest days of settlement.
Horse-drawn caleches in Old Montreal
Vieux Montréal is a major tourist attraction and one of the oldest urban areas in North America. Some of its buildings date to the 17th century. As you stroll along the cobbled streets of the eastern part of the old city (near Place Jacques-Cartier), look for notable buildings with historic architecture like the Hotel de Ville, Bonsecours Market and Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours Chapel, as well as preserved colonial mansions such as the Château Ramezay and the Sir George-Étienne Cartier National Historic Site of Canada.
Place Jacques Cartier in 1900
Our driver dropped us off on the top of Place Jacques Cartier, smack in the middle of Vieux Montréal. The tree lined square’s broad divided street slopes steeply downhill from the majestic Hotel de Ville on Rue Notre Dame to Rue de la Commune and the waterfront of Vieux Port, Montreal’s old port on the Saint-Laurence River. The square is named after the French explorer Jacques Cartier, who explored Canada hundreds of years ago. A panoply of street artists and kiosks normally fill the square in the summer. This autumn evening, as the deep indigos of dusk fell upon us, we wandered the less than crowded square surrounded by the festive amber lights of restaurants, cafes and shops. Casement windows of old Victorian buildings glowed like warm embers in the deepening shades of night, spilling their warmth onto the cobbles. Like a moth to light, Ness fell prey to a cheerful souvenir shop and disappeared inside.
Le Jardin Nelson on Place Jacques Cartier
Nina shrugged at me and smiled. Ness was a true shopper. As we waited for her to reappear with her prizes, we wandered the square, looking for a place to eat. Restaurants lined both sides of Place Saint-Jacques, including the cheerfully posh Jardin Nelson, a-bustle with the laughter of al fresco diners beneath the hue of its signature blue-lit windows. I was drawn to Rue Saint-Paul, a windy cobbled street with promises of excellent culinary surprises. Nina touched my paw and pointed to a horse-drawn calèche ambling below us on Rue de la Commune.
Le Sauvagine in Old Montreal
To our surprise, Ness soon emerged with just a small parcel. I guessed that she was as hungry as we were. Led by a mission to fine dine, we struck east on Rue Saint-Paul. I’m told that it is Montreal’s oldest street and for many years served as its main thoroughfare. The street was laid out by François Dollier de Casson, where a path had bordered a former fort. Paved in 1672 with cobblestones, it was named after Paul de Chomedey de Maisonneuve, who founded Montreal, and built his house there in 1650.
Ness at the entrace of Le Papillon on Rue Saint-Paul
We followed the winding narrow street, making note of several attractive restaurants until Ness jumped with glee and pointed to Le Papillon (a namesake for her). After a quick glance at the menu, I concurred and we entered through a grand antique doorway up a stairway.
The stairway led us into a spacious several-tiered restaurant, with clean lines, tiffany lamps and walls decorated with stained glass art. The same proprietor had owned the place for 25 years, which had started as an ice-cream parlor. It had evolved into a pizza restaurant and grew into the current establishment, which serves a range of authentic Italian and French food.
Inside Le Papillon
Wishing to eat lightly for the continued walk ahead, we chose an appetizer and salad accompanied by a French merlot, a Hob Nob by Georges Duboeuf.
Toulouse savors the escargots au gratin
Simiane, our vivacious young server, recommended the Escargots a l’Ail Gratins and I thought it a wonderful choice. The escargots were pleasantly firm and flavorful, and the baked cheese topping added a mild complexity and texture. I thanked the little snails, bathed in delicious herbed garlic butter, and lapped up the remains of the herbed garlic butter with fresh bread.
Papillon Salad!
The salad was a surprising bouquet of hidden treasure: a spinach salad ensconced beneath a splash of colour. Cantelope, honeydew, tomato and orange topped with blue cheese and olives and a refreshing savory salad dressing of pine nuts in olive oil. C’etait vraiment magnifique!
“You enjoy with your eyes, with your mouth, with everything,” said Simiane to my rapt expression. I had to smile at her wisdom and she whisked me into her hands to give me a little squeeze and a kiss. I think she liked me… :-3
I might have blushed but my lovely silver fur coat disguised it.
Simiane and Toulouse
We decided to be decadent and ended the meal with a flavorful French coffee and chocolate mousse pie for dessert. I thanked Simiane for a lovely meal and for her friendly hospitality and we headed out for more adventure on the streets of Vieux Montreal.
Ness enjoys the mousse
Montreal’s history dates back from when Canada was first formed. Its roots lie in a rich and vibrant French culture, giving it a charm unlike any other city in Canada. The merchants and clerks were friendly, cheerful and kind, with a healthy sense of humor. And they know how to make an incredible espresso!
Come in the summer, fall or winter and tell them Toulouse sent you!
