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Letters from Oli: Toulouse in San Diego and Beyond

22 Oct 2010 - Toulouse LeTrek

Maverick Ranch, Alpine CA

Here’s my response to my friend Oli’s two letters from Quebec and Ontario in his cross-Canada trip:

Hi Oli,

I’m happy that you’re having a grand adventure traveling across Canada. Isn’t it a beautiful country? You are seeing it the right way: through a road trip. You can meet people, smell the changing landscape, taste the water and follow the clouds.

Well, you may be wondering what I’ve been up to during your adventures. I’m having my own adventures. I’m Toulouse the COOL Travel Cat, after all…

I’m writing you from San Diego! That’s in California, Oli, in the

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Maverick Ranch, Alpine CA

United States. I was invited to serve as “animal consultant” for a series of educational dog videos being shot outside San Diego, in Alpine, CA. We know that cats are from another planet, so they aren’t included. The videos are obedience training for owners of dogs. And, no, silly! I know what you’re thinking: and I don’t mean teaching owners to be obedient! But, they are certainly involved in education as much as the dogs are. It’s an equation that relies on a two-way relationship. Happy Dog + Happy Owner = No Dog Shelter. We like that.

The Sofia Hotel & the Currant Brasserie…

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Toulouse Savors the Currant Salad

I met my film crew at the Sophia Hotel in San Diego, just blocks away from the avant-garde San Diego Conference Centre. We decided to chill at the Current, The Sophia’s brasserie, which serves elegant food, appetizers and desserts. Its bold avant-garde art nouveau take on a “classic historic” look really works: which includes checkered tiles, chandeliers, sofas, soft lighting and artwork. It’s classy, elegant and relaxed, with far-reaching columns and spacious windows and open doorways that draw in the San Diego sun and fresh air.

We settled in the patio outside and dined on sophisticated food and drink. One of the crew pointed to a waiter carrying what he thought was a fancy ice-water container and lamented that we hadn’t received one. He said that several other happy customers had received one.

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Toulouse Sips His Absinthe

All we got was glasses. I glanced over and recognized what he was pointing to: it was an absinthe fountain filled with ice-water and complete with spigots for Louching. Absinthe was popular this evening.

When Francisco, our waiter, returned with our order, he explained: Friday night was “absinthe minded Friday” at the Currant, where you can enjoy a lucid absinthe cocktail for $8 (all day!)… Not that YOU would like it, Oli. It tastes like licorice. Everyone turned to me: I was French, after all. It was obvious that they wanted to try it and were deferring to my wisdom to select the best absinthe of the several that the restaurant offered. I chose le Tourment Vert, distilled near Cognac, France, since 1934. It’s an approachable absinthe with a less bitter palate, suitable for my friends, and a lovely sage and mint finish. Absinthe is an anise-flavored spirit derived from herbs, including the flowers and leaves of Artemisia absinthium, commonly referred to as “grande wormwood”.

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Avante Garde Elegance of the Currant Brasserie

Francisco returned with our absinthe fountain and other things to Louche the drink: first he placed a lump of sugar on a flat slotted absinthe spoon, perched over the rim of the glass; then he poured the green-tinged absinthe in, drizzling a bit over the sugar. The sugar takes some of the bitter edge off the grand wormwood and releases the aroma of the plants, the perfume of the flowers and brings out subtleties originally over-powered by the anise. With the panache of a true Bohemian, Francisco set the sugar ablaze then doused it with ice cold water from the fountain. The absinthe turned slightly milky, liberating its essential oils and herbs from which it’s made; substances like anise, fennel and star anise that aren’t soluble in water.

The film crew sure enjoyed the show! Then it was time to drink our absinthe. Ooh La La! It was good!.. But you wouldn’t like it, Oli…

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Toulouse chills with friendly Sophia staff (aka Dr. Evil and cronies)

You’d like the Sofia, though! It’s more than pet-friendly. Thanks to its general manager, Andrea Winslow, the Sophia Hotel welcomes animals. Several of the staff bring their dogs to work with them. And they serve tasty biscuits in the lobby too! The staff are friendly, helpful and very very cool (as shown in this picture…meow). The Sofia Hotel belongs to a group of heritage hotels established by the National Trust in 1989, which identifies quality hotels that have faithfully maintained their historic integrity, architecture and ambience.

This boutique hotel is both comfortable and elegant, Oli. It used to be called the Pickwick Hotel and was a broadcasting company with studios and transmitter. The famous broadcaster, Art Linkletter, began his career there in the early 1930s with “the voice of sunny San Diego”. This place started out as a stagecoach company, Oli. And speaking of stagecoaches and horses…

Maverick Ranch & filming dogs…

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Toulouse cools off from the 105 degree heat

The next day the film crew and I drove to Alpine, half an hour from San Diego and set in the picturesque rolling mountain chaparral northeast of San Diego, under a baking 105º sun. This is ranch country, Oli. Where horses roam. Where the hot breeze carries the intoxicating scent of sage. Where succulent cactus plants thrive and bloom and the odorous monkey flower mugs at you from the side of every road. I wished I hadn’t left my cowboy hat at home…

When we reached Maverick Ranch, owners Rachel and Henry greeted us warmly along with their bevy of sleek whippets, one-month old puppies and friendly border

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The view from Maverick Ranch

collie. Rachel is an accomplished dog trainer and she demonstrated a lot of great methods to keep your cool and keep a good relationship going between dog and human. You’d like her, Oli. She’s firm but consistent and strict but compassionate. And here’s the best part: she gives her dogs those awesome “Pampered Pet Treats” all the time! BONUS! Like I said, you’d like it here. :-3

We filmed Rachel doing her cool training with several dogs over several days. The crew

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The film crew relaxes over wine after a long shoot

labored and sweated under the blazing 105º sun, while the “stars” (and animal consultant) basked in the cool shade, where the light was superior for filming. By the end of the day, everyone was pooped except me. But our hosts always came through and we ended each day’s shoot with fine wine and great conversation. This beats a Disney film any day!

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The Zen of Travel: Getting the Best Seat on the Plane

21 Jun 2010 - Toulouse LeTrek

Toulouse on the go!

You’ve all experienced it: cramped legs competing with your stowed luggage, the incessant fight over the armrest, the kid kicking your back seat or the man in front of you reclining into your lap.

Exit rows, aisle or window seats and seats close to the front of the plane area typically considered the best for various reasons that range a gamut from comfort, to convenience and to safety.

Business people often prefer to sit close to the front of the plane so they can rush out ahead of everyone else to get to their all-important meeting on time. If you’re a nervous flyer, you might want to sit over the wing, where less turbulence occurs. If you are long-of-leg and looking for more leg room, an aisle seat gives you a chance to stretch—so long as you don’t trip the flight attendant handing out meals. They don’t like that and your chances of getting a meal go down considerably. The window seat gives you a view for those scenic flights, particularly over the Rockies, and during overnight flights it gives you a place to rest your head, so you don’t have to rely on the shoulder of that pesky passenger you were fighting the arm rest for earlier.

Experienced travelers suggest that “bulkhead seats” offer more legroom. Nina found this to be the case, but didn’t enjoy the somewhat claustrophobic feeling of facing a wall at arm’s length for six hours. Besides, not all bulkhead seats offer lots of room; some are cramped and uncomfortable. It depends on the plane. Which is why Nina and I have tried to familiarize ourselves with the various planes: each has its unique seating arrangement. If you want to know more use google, ask someone in the industry, or email me and I can tell you.

Surviving the Middle Seat

Recently, when we were rerouted at the last minute, Nina and I ended up with a middle seat on an international flight. That’s a long time to be the meat of a sandwich. The middle seat is usually the least desirable seat on the plane, for obvious reasons. Now you have to fight for two armrests!

Seats near the flight attendant stations can be noisy and therefore distracting and keep you from resting. Similarly, seats located near washrooms may fall prey to unsavory smells and high traffic. Even this scenario can be used to

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Toulouse shares the middle seat with Nina's stuff

advantage—if you’re a writer and if you’re Nina, that is. On a flight to Denver from New York, Nina took advantage of the long queue of people to interview them about New York City. She made them her guaranteed prey; they had nowhere to go! :-3

Safety First

People keep asking me about where they should sit that would give them the best chance of surviving a plane crash. These are very deep and negative questions that make me think they should consider taking the train instead. Unfortunately, and not surprisingly, there is no clear-cut answer. One answer that I’ve heard often is that the rear of the aircraft is the safest. However other studies indicate that the safest place to sit is in the front of the plane within five rows of an emergency exit.

Ways to Get a Better Seat

Here are ten tips that can help you get a better seat, the one you want.

Buy your tickets early: pre-assignment gets more and more tricky the closer you approach the flight date.
Select your seat when you book your flight: this is an option most airlines and flights offer. Instead of letting them randomly pre-assign a seat, you can select one. Be sure you know the plane and what you want in a seat before picking one.
Checking in online as soon as you can also increases your chance of getting the seat you want. Most airlines let you check in online 24 hours before your flight leaves. You can confirm the seat you’ve already chosen or choose a better one.
Get to the airport early so you don’t lose your seat
Confirm your seat at the gate; this is your last chance to change your seat; sometimes you can change your seat there if the flight isn’t fully or over-booked
Get to know the various planes, and where the best seats are. This way, you will know which seat to book when you buy your ticket. It pays to be savvy!

Okay, I only gave you six; they were condensed into a powerful few. Now go and have fun. I’m Toulouse the COOL Travel Cat.

Toulouse’s Zen of Travel: Life (and travel) is full of choices; make them all impeccable and get the most out of it.

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Category: World Travel, Zen of Traveling Tags: finding the best seat, getting the best seat on a plane, the karma of flying, the travel cat, the zen of travel, Toulouse LeTrek, toulouse the Travel cat, travel advisor, travel tips, travel wisdom, traveling, travelling, ways to get a better seat 3 Comments

Traveling in Switzerland: The Merula Bar in Merlischachen, where Brazil meets Switzerland

23 May 2010 - Toulouse LeTrek

A Happy Toulouse sips his Caipirinha on Lake Lucerne

Alexander, my new friend on Facebook, calls it “Caipirinha”. At least that’s how he advertizes this exotic drink at the Merula Bar that he and his wife Maira run on the shore of the Lake Lucerne in the little farming village of Merlischachen.

Located about 5 miles east of Lucerne, this charming village reflects the root of its name, which Alexander tells me loosely translates to “merry little town by the lake”. That’s only one story; the locals give several stories of how the place got its name. One is that it was named after a brave knight Hermanno de Merlischachen, who apparently lived in a tower on the peninsula where an estate called “Burg” (fortress) still exists today. Alexander told us that the name Merlischachen also derives from the Latin word “merula,” which means blackbird, and from the German word “Schachen,” meaning a small forest on a lake or stream; one of the reasons he called his bar the Merula Bar. Yet another story comes from the local coat of arms which is a green branch of an alder tree, “Erlenzweig,” hung with flowers and fruit on a gold background. It’s reminiscent of “im Erlischachen”, hence Merlischachen. While Nina gravitated to the romance of the knight (after googling him, she found nothing about this mysterious knight), I liked the “forest on a lake with blackbirds” explanation. It is an apt name for this quiet and charming village, where the only sound that stirs as you fall asleep each night is the constant lullaby of cow bells.

We were staying at the Schloss Hotel-Swiss Chalet complex in Merlischachen and during our daily walks in the

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Lake Lucerne from Mount Rigi

village, we visited some of our Merlischachen friends, two Swiss cows grazing in a neighbor’s back yard, just below our suite. Our walk on the Schloss Hotel grounds park led us along Lake Lucerne. Called the Vierwaldstättersee (“lake of the four forested Cantons”) Lake Lucerne is the fourth largest lake in Switzerland with meandering arms that cut through steep valleys and stretch from the city of Lucerne to the mountains of Rigi and Pilatus.

Nina will tell you that she heard the lively music first; but I know that it was my impeccable nose for Croque Monsieur that led us down the park path from the Schloss Hotel to this lively cantina-bar. Other locals had already discovered this little haven on the lake and were basking in the warm sun with a great view of the Swiss Alps.

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The Charming Village of Merlischachen

We ordered two Croque Monsieurs and were thinking about what local beer we hadn’t yet tried when Alexander suggested the Caipirinha. Immediately intrigued, Nina asked him what it was.

Caipirinha is a traditional Portuguese Brazilian drink prepared with Cachaça (pronounced Ka-SHA-sa), lime juice, sugar and ice, Alexander explained. He then proceeded to mesmerize Nina by showing us how this wonderful drink from Brazilian cane sugar brandy is made. First he created a juicy “mash” of fresh limes (both flesh and peels) with Ypioca (Cachaça) using a mortar and pestle. Then he added ice (some people like to use crushed ice but we had chunks of ice) and brown sugar to taste.

Cachaça is the essential ingredient in Caipirinha, the national spirit of Brazil, Alexander told us. It is the spirit of Carnival, “the spirit of a country enjoying life.” Cachaça is a product of sugar cane and has a character somewhat

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Toulouse joins Alexander and Maira Eisenmann at the Merula Bar

similar to, though drier, than white rum (also made with cane sugar). However, while rum is produced from the molasses made from the sugar cane, Cachaça is produced directly from the juice of the cane. Ypióca Cachaça, the largest selling brand in Brazil, is produced only from the first crush. Locals drink Cachaça neat in small shot glasses. Others prefer a mix of Cachaça with lemon, passion fruit, tamarind, sugar and ice in a drink called a batida. Yet others drink it with limes, sugar and ice as a Caipirinha.

We sat on the patio and ate our Croque Monsieurs, feasting our eyes on the view of jeweled lake and snow-covered mountains. Within moments our exotic taste of Rio came. The potent and colorful “mash” of Caipirinha did an lively Spanish dance in my mouth and awoke my taste buds with a song of tart freshness. My whiskers curled with delight.

Nina laughed at me: “Your cheeks are puffing out again, Toulouse!”

She was one to talk; her cheeks were “puffing out” too… LOL!

Here is the recipe:

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Ypioca Cachaça, the Brazilian ambrosia

Caipirinha is made using 1 lime cut into 4 pieces, 2 1/2 ounces Cachaça, 1 to 2 Tbs. fine cane sugar, and crushed ice. First you crush the pieces of lime with the sugar thoroughly, preferably with a mortar and pestle. Then you add the ice, Cachaça, and stir or shake well in a tumbler. The lime pieces should remain in the glass, adding brilliant color and texture to this playful and zesty drink.

Photos by Nina Munteanu

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Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner at the Montreal Airport

06 Apr 2010 - Toulouse LeTrek

Toulouse contemplates the toast at Moe's Deli & Bar

It started for me at 4 am on Sunday, when Nina snatched me off her writing desk and shoved me into her backpack (she isn’t very good at anything that early in the morning, so I’m lucky she didn’t drop me). our trip this time would take us from Halifax Airport to Montreal and finally to Zurich, where Nina was participating in a conference. The flight to Zurich from Montreal would take us nine hours but our lay-over in the Montreal Airport was just as long!

The drive to Halifax Airport was uneventful (a good thing) through dense fog and that signature Nova Scotia darkness that makes star-gazing a wondrous activity. But this morning the fog patches enveloped us in a mystical gray sea of mist that obscured everything, including the stars and even the road (NOT a good thing). The fog was a dark organic beast that sucked in all the light, like an existential being in one of Nina’s SF stories.

We made it to the Halifax Airport with plenty of time to spare. Security was uneventful (a change from Nina’s usual pattern; see my earlier post on the singing customs official) and we had lots of time to relax and catch up on emails over a Starbuck’s coffee and chocolate banana bread (Nina ate most of it—you can’t leave chocolate in front of her unattended; with her karma, I bet she’ll come back in her next “life” as a Hershey bar). Our flight to Montreal was also uneventful (Thank the Universe!). I couldn’t believe it; Nina slept through the free snack and drink service!

When we landed in Montreal at 8 am, we had a 9 hour lay-over at the Pierre Elliott Trudeau Airport. Yeah, just

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Milcho assures Toulouse that the Coffee is Marvelous!

what I thought: brutal! Nina didn’t think so; she cheerfully surveyed the airport and settled in Moe’s Deli & Bar, where she set up her mobile office of two computers, notebook, and alien-pen. She was following my advice on the Zen of Travel! LOL!

Milcho Markov, a friendly Bulgarian who spoke with a rich modulating accent, served us breakfast. He’d moved to Montreal seven years ago and enjoys its cosmopolitan atmosphere. Nina ordered the Enchilada dejeuner and she and Milcho discussed climate change, the Bulgarian countryside, computers, why Montrealers like books about Toronto getting “nuked”, and the merits of tap water. When he returned with the coffee, he deftly handed her a stack of serviettes— like he knew her propensity to spill. No surprise; within minutes, she knocked over the coffee cream in her storytelling exuberance and those serviettes came in very handy. I think Milcho was a shaman in another life. :-3

Or was it the little stain on her shirt that gave her nature away?…

Deciding that we’d lingered there long enough, Nina set up her mobile office at another bar and we ate lunch and dinner over several Corona Extras. At 5 pm we boarded the Swiss Air flight, which was right on time (it’s Swiss, after all :-3). That flight too was uneventful (also a good thing). Nina originally had an aisle seat, ideal for stretching one’s legs and meeting necessities. But then she felt sorry for the lady from Berlin in the middle seat next to her whose entertainment monitor was broken and Nina offered to switch seats. Nice but not smart. It was a

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Swiss Air plane

long flight. Nina didn’t seem to care; she’d discovered that the wine and liquor was free, and went hog-wild ordering a bazillion coffees and Baileys (she didn’t need entertainment; she was her own entertainment. And mine too…:-3).

We landed at 6 am on Monday morning at the Zurich Airport and took the train into the centre of Zurich City. Our final destination was the Alexander Hotel on Neiderdorf Strasse in the Old Town of Zurich. But that’s another post…

I’m Toulouse, the cool travel cat. :-3

Photos by Nina Munteanu

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Eating and Drinking our Way through Nova Scotia: Lunenburg’s Mariner King Hotel

01 Apr 2010 - Toulouse LeTrek

Lunenburg waterfront

“Comb your whiskers, Toulouse!” Nina announced, barging in through the door of our apartment in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia. “We’re eating out!”

I glanced up from the newspaper and glimpsed her flushed beaming face. I decided that she’d either been drinking without me or had encountered something—or someone—interesting. I concluded the latter (she just wouldn’t do the former!), plus she was clutching her camera with triumphant glee. She vindicated me with her explanation: “I’ve discovered some cool stuff and the neatest place to eat!”

We’d recently moved to Lunenburg, Nova Scotia, a charming fishing town and an ENESCO designated World Heritage site. Settled by mostly German farmers in the mid 1700s, Lunenburg is home to the schooner Bluenose II and known for its vernacular architecture. Its dominant hillside setting has remained largely unchanged since

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Heritage house with "Lunenburg Bump"

the 1700s. A friend of mine described Lunenburg as a “small San Francisco”. While this is a good description, it doesn’t accurately portray the town’s character: its European-style maritime charm; its steep lanes and historic buildings; its cozy cafés where salty characters in woolen hats mingle with world-known avant-garde artists and discuss projects in London, Toronto and New York; and its small eclectic shops with names like The Laughing Whale, Adam & Knickle, EmOcean, Large Marge’s Diner, Jenny Jib, The Tin Fish, The Scuttlebutt, The Black Duck, and Windbag Company.

After some meticulous grooming, I let Nina put me in her backpack and we left the apartment in search of adventure. We were being joined by two artist friends and had time before meeting them for our supper reservation, so Nina showed me some of Lunenburg, where she’d been taking photographs.

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parlor in the Mariner King Hotel

Many of Lunenburg’s two-story British classical Georgian houses were remodeled in eclectic Victorian Gothic or Italianate styles, with mansard roofs that featured what’s called a “Lunenburg Bump” (usually an overhang or front piece above the central doorway) and flanked by two attractive dormers (see pictures below). What struck

me also was that these elegant homes were painted in bold but tasteful colors. I saw bright red, green, salmon, pink, lavender and, of course, light yellow (worthy of a whole post) forming a cheerful and tasteful tapestry of color.

The Mariner King Historic Inn with its elegant restaurant, the King’s Plate, was no exception. It was built in a Georgian style by Dr. Charles Bolman in 1830 to mark the coronation of King William IV of England, the “Mariner King”, and the first British Royal to come to Nova Scotia.

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Toulouse gets on top of a Sagittarius vodka

Six years later the Zwicker family bought it and “Victorianized” it along with the famous Lunenburg “bump” over the entrance. The Reiblings bought the hotel in 2007 and remodeled it as a boutique hotel decorated with tasteful eclectic furnishings and art obtained from all over the world.

Nina had earlier met Susan Reibling, the owner, who had shown Nina the historic hotel. While there, Nina was offered excellent coffee, which was enough to convince her of their class and fine dining. She uses coffee as a barometer for good cuisine. Not a bad idea… :-3

We met our friends in front of the Inn and still had some time before supper so we lounged in the front parlor

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Toulouse waits for his turn with the morel soup

where our hostess, Joanna, recommended that Nina order a “Sagittarius”. The Sagittarius is a cocktail of limejuice, dill, cracked pepper, muddled, with a shot of vodka, shaken over ice, strained over ice and topped with tonic. Nina offered me a few sips and I thought it superb. Before I knew it, she was fishing me out of the drink! I’m not sure how I got there, but I was feeling no pain. :-3

“Doesn’t take much,” Nina’s artist friend Teresa quipped, raising her brow at my aromatic wet fur as Nina pulled me out of the drink. “He doesn’t have much body weight.”

We were called into supper, which consisted of creamy mushroom soup with morels (It was exquisite and rivaled the mushroom cream soup we had in Brio, Detroit, a while

ago). Nina and I shared an entré of Beef Tenderloin Stroganoff with pearl onions and mushrooms. That was

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Toulouse gets first dibs on the main course

followed by a Bavarian Cream, drizzled with caramel sauce.

While Nina and I fought for the last spoon of desert, Konrad Haumering, the chef from Meunster Germany, joined us. Luckily, Nina decided to behave and removed her spoon from my face. Recognizing me, Konrad invited me to the back for a private tour of the kitchen facility, where I met his assistants and other members of the hotel staff.

I think Nina was miffed that she didn’t get the tour, but then she’s not

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Chef Konrad and Toulouse discuss recipes

the cool travel cat… :-3

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Tag-Archive for » the travel cat «

Letters from Oli: Toulouse in San Diego and Beyond

The Zen of Travel: Getting the Best Seat on the Plane

Traveling in Switzerland: The Merula Bar in Merlischachen, where Brazil meets Switzerland

Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner at the Montreal Airport

Eating and Drinking our Way through Nova Scotia: Lunenburg’s Mariner King Hotel

Help Send Toulouse To Patagonia

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Tag-Archive for » the travel cat «

Letters from Oli: Toulouse in San Diego and Beyond

The Zen of Travel: Getting the Best Seat on the Plane

Traveling in Switzerland: The Merula Bar in Merlischachen, where Brazil meets Switzerland

Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner at the Montreal Airport

Eating and Drinking our Way through Nova Scotia: Lunenburg’s Mariner King Hotel

Help Send Toulouse To Patagonia

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World Travel

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